Finding freedom travelling 10 days on a catamaran
- Flo MBT
- Oct 2, 2024
- 5 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
In August 2024, we had the incredible luck to spend 10 days on a #catamaran sailing across the Tuamotu Islands in #FrenchPolynesia.
Although we went with a bit of apprehension, we never could have imagined how much we would enjoy it. As we are always searching for freedom and a connection to nature, this trip brought us closer to perfection.
The atolls we visited are part of the Tuamotu Archipelago, a remote paradise known for its stunning lagoons, crystal-clear waters, and untouched coral reefs.
As one of the largest chains of atolls in the world, it offers a serene escape for those seeking solitude and a deep connection with nature.
The Tuamotu Archipelago
With a few exceptions, most atolls in the archipelago remain remote and isolated, offering a glimpse into a simpler way of life.
On most of the 26 inhabited atolls, a small village of no more than a hundred residents exists, with minimal infrastructure: a few roads, an elementary school, a colorful church, and perhaps a small store or two, restocked with basic supplies when the ship from Tahiti arrives every two or three weeks.
Sailing across the Tuamotu Islands
Day 1 - 3 | Fakarava Atoll
Population: 1670
Fakarava is renowned for its breathtaking biodiversity, especially its vibrant coral reefs and abundant marine life.
As a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, it offers a unique opportunity to dive and witness the famous wall of sharks.
Day 3 - 7 | Faaite Atoll
Population: 440
Faaite Atoll is a hidden gem within the Tuamotu Archipelago. With only a handful of inhabitants, Faaite offers an authentic and peaceful escape, where time slows down. Its untouched beauty, stunning lagoons, and tranquil atmosphere make it one of the best-kept secrets in French Polynesia. From our cabin on the catamaran, we could even hear the coral – the gentle sound of the underwater world, creating an almost magical, serene ambiance.
Day 7 - 10 | Kauehi Atoll
Population: 200
Kauehi is known for its peaceful village and its stunning lagoon, making it an ideal destination for snorkeling, diving, and experiencing the untouched charm of French Polynesia.
Before setting off on our catamaran adventure, we landed in Fakarava and spent a day in the charming village of Rotoava.
This adorable village is famous for its "sleeper sharks," which you can often spot resting near the shore. We explored a few small shops where locals sell beautiful souvenirs and pearls, and enjoyed delicious meals at the cozy restaurants and snack bars nearby. Most accommodations offer convenient airport pick-up and drop-off services, making the stay seamless.
The people in Fakarava were absolutely lovely, embodying the warmth and hospitality found throughout French Polynesia.
Our favorites in Rotoava Village:
Lunch at Le Snack Requin
Dinner at Hirinaki Lounge
Lunch or Dinner at Elda snack
Stay at Relay Marama
Here we were, ready to start our catamaran trip.
However, the ocean was particularly rough that day, so our skipper couldn’t pick us up near the village. Instead, he arranged for a local fisherman to come and take us to the catamaran, which was anchored two hours away in a calmer spot. The two hours trip was.... an adventure itslef!
We then spent the next two to three days at different spots, including the famous south pass of Fakarava.
Our time was filled with snorkeling and exploring the nearby islands, while dozens of blacktip sharks gathered at the back of the catamaran. And guess what? If we wanted to shower, we had to jump into the water to wash up before using a bit of fresh water!
We highly recommend jumping into the water at the south pass to see the famous wall of sharks! While scuba diving offers a more immersive experience, you can also enjoy this incredible sight while snorkeling.
After a few days in Fakarava, we were ready to set sail for Faaite. We pulled up the anchor and were on our way, embarking on an 8-9 hour sailing adventure—our first one ever! What an experience!
We arrived in Faaite and anchored in the middle of the pass, which was absolutely incredible. The currents there are quite strong, and while we initially felt uneasy, we trusted our skipper.
What amazed us the most about Faaite was the coral. We could actually hear it from our cabin, and it was loud!
Some highlights from our days in Faaite
Dogs:
We encountered so many beautiful dogs on the island. But the funniest moment was when, while on the boat, we suddenly heard barking in the water. We were quite far from shore, and the current was strong, so we brought the two dogs aboard the catamaran, gave them water and some love. We thought we had saved them! Once they were rested, we returned them to the shore—and guess what? They jumped right back into the water and swam straight back to the catamaran! The locals told us these dogs just love swimming and surfing the waves!
Shopping in Faaite:
There are only two very small shops in Faaite with limited supplies, and you won’t be able to buy any alcohol on the island.
We also visited the studio of a man who sells shells and jewelry at the market in Fakarava. We even bought a shark tooth from him—taken from a tiger shark the locals killed a couple of months ago because it was getting too close to shore, worrying about the safety of the children.
Water vortex:
Koko Oana, or the blue hole, is a tunnel connecting the lagoon to the ocean. It’s absolutely fascinating to see!
We pulled up the anchor at Faaite around 11 p.m. and sailed through the night toward Kauehi. Kauehi is even more remote and less inhabited than Faaite. We first anchored for two nights in a secluded area of the lagoon, far from any sign of life. We spent a beautiful day on the beach, grilling the fish we had caught during our journey.
After two nights, we moved closer and anchored near the village. Kauehi has two shops, both larger than the ones in Faaite. We spoke with many of the locals, who shared a lot about life on the island.
We learned that there are no children under the age of 8 on the island, as the school only goes up to that age. After that, kids attend boarding school on a larger island and return only for school holidays.
We spent our days snorkeling, exploring the island, fishing, and relaxing.
After nine unforgettable days, it was time to head back to Fakarava. Emotions ran high as we reflected on the trip. We all felt good, free, and alive during those days, experiencing things only possible when traveling by boat. Kauehi has no airport and only one accommodation, making it a place few people will ever get to see in their lifetime.
The final leg of our journey was the toughest—perhaps because we were a bit sad. Some of us got seasick, and most of us slept through the day.
As Fakarava came into view, it was time to return to land. It was an amazing experience for the six of us—one we’ll never forget.
If you liked this post and want to support our journey, you can buy us a coffee here → buymeacoffee
☕️ Thanks a ton!
Comments